$1000 Canyon

Tuesday, May 24th

The sixty miles from Williams to the Grand Canyon was a bit chilly and cloudy.  Par for the course on this trip.  But I was too excited to let it bother me. 

I made it to the South Rim entrance, parked and went to the check out the visitors center.  Knowing that the actual canyon was so close, I couldn't concetrate on anything in the visitor's center, and quickly left to see what I came to see.  As I approached to view point, wow, just wow.  Words cannot describe it, nor can pictures.  You have to see it in person.  I stood and just let it all soak in. 

I drove along the south rim and stopped at several view points absolutely amazed at what I saw every time!

In awe, I pointed south and head for Phoenix to meet up with another friend I had made in Korea!  The drive leaving the Grand Canyon was stunning, and aside from strong winds, it was a great drive.  Near Flagstaff it was a little chilly, but the chilly mountain scenery gave way to desert the further I went south.  Luckily, I-17 south is in better condition than the rest of the Arizona roads I'd traveled so far.

I arrived at Karen's house in the evening!  Great to see another friend that I'd met in a far off land!

Phoenix is hot and sunny!  Off to the pool.

On Wednesday I met two friends from high school I hadn't seen since college.  We went out to old town Scottsdale, which I really liked.  Good times with old friends!

Thursday I went to a Harley dealership to get the first oil change of the trip, and after relaxed by the pool. 

Phoenix was great and I could see myself building a life there some day.  Thanks to Karen, her brother and his family for their above and beyond hospitality!  And Lara and Kathleen for showing me Scottsdale!

This Road Leads to Your Murder

Monday, May 23rd

I left Las Vegas and made the quick jaunt to the Hoover Dam.  It's huuuuuge!  Not much more I can say about that.  I took a walk on the Memorial Bridge that gives a great view of the dam from above.  Wow.

I thought I'd make it to the Grand Canyon today as well.  But as I traveled south on I-93, I saw a sign for the Grand Canyon Skywalk.  I thought that would be the way to see the Grand Canyon, instead of what I had planned, which was driving along the south rim.  Perfect!  Cool way to see it in a lot less time. 

The exit for the Grand Canyon Skywalk said it was 43 miles to the east.  I drove 20 miles down a road that looked like it led to an old ghost town, which it did.  Scattered throughout the desert scenery were immobile trailers that people lived it.  It felt as though the Grand Canyon Skywalk sign was to lure unknowing tourists to their death in the desert by evil, old townsfolk.  There isn't much to say for the condition of the road, either.  Not good.  Another sign 20 miles down the road instructed me to take a right, and the Skywalk would be 23 miles further.  This road was beautifully paved and a pleasure to drive on!  For 7 miles.  Then it turned to rock and dirt.  Which means that it's a dirt road for the final 16 miles to the Skywalk.  I'd come this far, so why not try it.  After a bumpy half a mile, I made a turn that revealed the rest of the road would be very hilly with lots of turns.  A car was parked, and four people stood around as one other changed a flat tire.  I pulled up to them, and they said, "Don't do it!"  They explained that the terrain was awful, and like driving over a washboard, and for 16 more miles!  I was thankful for the advice and turned around to head back to the road.  I was also angry that there was not a sign explaining how diffcult of a drive to the Skywalk it was.  The sign appeared cheerful.  "Just 43 miles this way!  :)"  When it should have said, "It ain't so easy to get to". 

Angry at this delay, which all told cost me about 2 hours in time.  I headed back to 93, hungry, and in desperate need of some gas.  I headed south and came to Kingman, AZ.  According to the sign, the "Historic Heart of Route 66".  I hadn't planned on riding Route 66, so it was cool to see part of it and all the nostalgic shops in town.  Clyde and I re-fueled and I headed east on I-40 to Williams.  Williams is 60 miles south of the south rim of the Grand Canyon, and an old railroad town.  Back in the day the only way to get to the canyon was by rail, and this was where you caught that rail.  I got a room for the night and decided the Grand Canyon would wait til the morning!

Note:  Arizona highways as I've experienced them so far are awful.  They have more holes in them than a story told by Johnny the Snake.  (I don't know anyone named Johnny the Snake, but I'd imagine a story told by someone with that name would have a lot of holes in it.)

Vegas, baby, Vegas

Saturday, May 21st

It was a beautiful day and a beautiful drive!  Utah has an amazing lanscape and I recommend anyone drive through it.  I-70 west from Denver through Utah will not be a route you'll regret taking! 

Making my way to Vegas, I cut through about 30 miles of Arizona, which was specatucular.  It felt like I was on a boat riding the Colorado river through the Grand Canyon.  The highway weaves through giant rock formations, and it looks like you will drive straight into them as the road disappears around the corner. 

Nevada was pure desert.  It was hot and sunny!  The desert is so expansive, and looks very easy to bury a body out there that will never be found.  How many are out there now?  Vegas appeared in the distance!  What a site, and what contrast to the landscape around it! 

After such awful weather pretty much the entire trip, I treated my self to a room at New York, New York.  I have two friends (they are married) from Korea that live in Vegas.  They picked me up and took me to an off the strip restaurant that was fantastic!  Shrimp by the pound for each of us!  The table is covered with a plastic sheet, you wear a bib, and they bring you your pound of shrimp in a plastic bag.  It was delicious and easy to see why there was a 45 minute wait for a table! 

Like they say, what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas.  It was great to see old friends, especially friends I had met in such a far off place.  Thanks Jenny and Justin!

Not Gonna Be Salty

Friday, May 20th

I checked the weather forecast for the Pacificic Northwest.  It looked like rain for the next ten days, so I decided on a major re-route.  Instead of Seattle being the first corner, I'd head for some sun and make San Diego the first corner.  Las Vegas wasn't far, 449 miles away.  The new plan would be to head for Vegas, then see the Hoover Dam and Grand Canyon on my way to Phoenix, Arizona.  Afer that, I'll head to San Deigo, reach my first corner, then LA and up to the coast. 

To get to Vegas, I'd have to head west and then south.  West would take me through some mountains in Utah, and south back to the desert.  As I headed west, it quickly got cold and windy, and once again I had to put on all my cold weather/rain gear.  Then it got dark.  Very dark afer just 70 miles of driving.  I pulled over to a rest area that luckily had a roof that provided some shelter.  As soon as I got of the bike it began to hail.  Small-sized hail, but hail nonetheless.  For two and a half hours it would hail for a few minutes, then stop, hail and stop.  I stood shivering hating this trip I am taking.  It was the lowest point mentally I had been, and thoughts of quitting entered my mind. 

There was a break in the weather, and I thought this is my chance to get to a town, the nearest to the west was Salina, 30 miles away.  I jumped on my bike and took off.  Much to my chagrin, it got dark and I rode through brief hail storms.  Slowly and steadily, and in pain as hail pricked my face, I made it to Salina, cold, wet, and angry, but 106 miles closer to Vegas.  It was as if the weather thought I had a drink that needed freshening up with some ice.  Uh, weather, I don't have a drink, so please stop providing me with little balls of ice.  While I appreciate the thought, stick it where the sun don't shine, which at this point, is anywhere I am.  I took a hot shower and dreamt of sunshine and warmth in Vegas the next day.

Hail falling on the roof of the rest area that provided much needed shelter.

Tease

Thursday May, 19th

It was drizzling when I woke up and the temperature was in the 40's.  Despite this I really wanted to get out of Moab.  Which I did.  But did not get very far.  Green River is a town 50 miles northwest of Moab.  That's where I ended up after 144 miles of driving.  I passed Green River earlier in the day and continued northwest.  It was cloudy with patches of blue sky.  As I got further north I saw what would be the end of my day.  A wall of thunderstorms.  I drove into sheets of rain and immediately turned around and headed back to Green River, the nearest town with a hotel I didn't have to drive through a thunderstorm to get to.  Damn.  Short day with little progress.

Arches Provide Good Support

Tuesday, May 17th

My plan for the day was to check out Arches National Park early, then head north to Salt Lake City on my way to my first corner, Seattle. 

Of course it was raining when I woke up.  I asked for a late check out in the hopes the rain would stop.  Which it finally did at noon.  Clyde and I took advantage of the break in the rain and went to Arches National Park.   It's hard to put into words what I saw.  Petrified sand dunes, red rock, rocks sitting on top of other rocks that look like they should fall over but don't, and naturally formed rock arches.  The park service is quick to point out that the park has been used by Hollywood for several movies.  The famous scene in Thelma and Louise when they drive up to the canyon, and most recently 127 Hours, where the actual event took place.

I spent a lot more time than I had planned there because it was such a cool place.  It was late in the afternoon, the weather was threatening rain again, so I decided to spend another night there. 

Bad decision.  The next day.  Thunderstorms.  So I stayed another day!

Snow to Desert

Monday, May 16th

I woke up Monday morning to another unseasonably cold and cloudy day.  I was off to Red Rocks, a place I'd always wanted to see a concert, and about a 30 minute drive from Ryan's house, enroute to Utah.

Red Rocks is a beautiful place on it's own, and must be an unbelievable place to see a concert.  To my surprise, there were quite a few people there working out and running the stairs of the amphitheater.  I stood on stage and imagined all the people that have stood in the same spot and played music to thousands of screaming fans that adore them, and what they must have felt like playing to thousands of screaming fans.  I'll have to come back to Red Rocks for a concert some day.

The walk into the venue

View from the stage

I had originally planned on going to Yellowstone next.  But it was snowing in Yellowstone, so I re-routed to Utah, based on the suggestion of Kate's husband, Mike.  Thanks, Mike.  So I jumped on I-70 west and head for Arches National Park, in Moab, UT.  As I got on 70, the clouds parted and I enjoyed a crisp, blue sky.  What a feeling being on a motorcycle driving past snow-capped mountain peak after peak.  70 follows the Colorado river.  I had to stop at a rest stop to surrounded by mountains, and where the CO river rushed by them.  It was a stunning setting to take a break. 

Mountain faded to rock shelves and desert.  As I crossed the border into Utah, my arch enemy slapped me hard in the face to remind me he still existed.  Wind.  I dropped down 191 south and it was another beautiful ride into Moab, which is just outside of Arches National Park.  It's a cool town with a "we love doing outdoor activities" feeling.  Lots of jacked up Jeeps with huge tires, signs for rafting trips, skydiving, and other ways of experiencing the naturally beautiful surroundings.  I like it.

November rain....in May

Saturday, May 14th

I had planned on being in Denver a couple of days, but because I was stuck in Wall, SD, that wasn't gonna happen.  Saturday I had plans to meet an old friend from high school in Boulder, CO, where he lives with his wife.  I hadn't seen him in some 14 years!

Because the weather did not want to break from tradition and give me a sunny day, it was raining as I made the 29 mile trip to Boulder. 

It was great to see Ryan, and meet his wife.  They were very hospitable.  Ryan took me out for a night on the town in Boulder.  Boulder has a really good feel to it, as Denver has, and I could see my self living in either of these cities. 

Our plan was to take a ride the next day.  Ryan explained that it's usually sunny in CO, and that the chill and massive cloud cover we woke up to was unusual this time of year.  I explained it was usual for my trip.  Despite the weather, we took short ride up Green Mountain, passing the Flatirons.  It had spectacular views at of Boulder, but as we got further up we just saw the clouds we were now in.  It was pretty cool riding up there though, with the clouds surrounding us and snow still on tree tops.  It's easy to see why the city is called Bouler.  The boulders are huge and almost look fake!

Stone Cold Stares

Friday, May 13th

I woke up excited to see Mount Rushmore.  Not so excited it was 40 degrees outside, and I had to drive 80 miles before I got to see four dead presidents immortalized in stone.  Altough I was shivering the entrire drive, and had to stop several times to warm up, I couldn't help but notice the changing landscape.  Rolling green grass turned into mountainous landscape.  Every time a landscape changes, I'm amazed.  Drive two hours in any direction and the landscape changes drastically.  I have a feeling this wlll be a common theme throughout this trip.

Although I could see the stone cold stares of Washington, Jefferson, Teddy Roosevelt, and Lincoln from a view point leading up to the parking, I decided to pay the $11 to park and get a closer look.  The parking lot attendant said I won the prize so far that day for having traveled the furthest.  That didn't seem to take the sting out of what I think is an expensive parking fee, for what provides very little in a good overall experience of Mt. Rushmore.  I'll admit that having each state's flag line the walk up to the memorial is pretty cool.  There it is.  It sort of made the trip seem unreal, staring at this monument that I've always heard about and have never seen.  Cool!  Time to go.  While it was an experience to see it, I think they could do a lot more as far as the overall experience goes. 

I drove a short distance to the Crazy Horse Memorial next.  Now this is bang for your buck.  It's a nomimal fee of $5 to park.  You see the incomplete memorial in the distance ahead of you.  The visitor's center is filled with pictures, facts, and a theater that shows a short film explaining the memorial.    There was also a very nice Indian Motorcycle that you could enter a drawing to win.  There are donation boxes place around the large visitor's center so that if you wish to donate, you can.  They need money desperately to complete the project.  It was a much better experience overall than Mt. Rushmore, and I felt that in a way, Crazy Horse deserves a memorial on that land more so than the four presidents I had seen earlier.   Interesting that Crazy Horse's memorial is unfinished. 

In progress

What the finished product will look like

Then it was time for Clyde and I to make a a long haul to Denver!  With 350 miles to go, I was really hoping the weather would warm up, which it did as I got further south.  On my way, I drove through quite a bit of Wyoming.  It feels like cattle country, and home to a lot of cowboys.  It was a great drive with green grass and cattle on either side of me as far as the eye could see.  As I got further south, I looked to my right and there were the Rocky Mountains!  That was my second wind moment of the day.  Earlier, thinking about how far I had to go before sitting in a comfy seat at Coors field enjoying a beer watching the Rockies game, I had considered calling it a day. 

My friend Kate had tickets for the game that started at 6:40.  I exited the highway in downtown Denver at 6:40, so we'd be late for the game, but who cares.  I made it to Denver, where the beer flows like wine!  Kate, her husband, and two of their friends were already at a bar waiting for me.  Kate had given me directions to her apartment and how to get in.  I found my way there, freshened up, and met them to catch a Rockies game!  Good times in Denver!

The Road Back Home....er...Hotel

May 12th, 2011

It was cold and rainy when I woke up excited to see Mt. Rushmore, a measely 80 miles from Wall.  Determined to see it today, I packed up the bike and set out.  After 7 miles of cold, piercing rain, I turned around and held my head in shame as I returned to the hotel I had spent the night before in, and asked for my room back.  The receptionist said she thought I was a little crazy for trying to leave in the first place.  

I'd like to note that the conditions for riding WERE terrible.  But, instead of taking 90, and risking being passed by 18 wheelers and speeding cars in already bad conditions, I found a way with no interstate travel that led to Mt. Rushmore.  The 7 miles I drove were on that road, which was nicely paved....until it turned to dirt, which is when I thought I should stay in Wall one more day.

Night and Day

May 11th, 2011

It was 90 degrees yesterday. 

Today, I woke up to sunshine, and a bit of a chill in the air. 

I was excited to drive through Badlands National Park, Mount Rushmore, and the Crazy Horse Memorial.  I started the day wearing just a long sleeve shirt, and my jacket.  20 miles down the road, I put on a sweatshirt as it got darker and colder.  20 miles further down the road I stopped and put on my rain gear to help break the chilly wind.  Making my way to the Badlands, I had to stop every 50 miles to warm up.  It was night, compared to the day yesterday. 

Seeing the Badlands in the distance was a site for cold eyes.  If you haven't been there, go.  Now.  On a motrocycle.  America's first example of stark contrast in landscapes.  Yesterday was cornfields and then green grass.  Today a vast area of rock formations called the Badlands.  The Dakota Indians called the area "mako sica", meaning "land bad".  French trappers called the area "bad land to cross".  I can't imagine trying to cross through that area without paved roads.  Thank you to those that paved those roads.  Riding through the badlands with Clyde, was one the coolest things I've ever done.  No exaggeration.  Sidenote:  Clyde is now a mass murderer.  He keeps his victims, dead insects, smashed on the windshield.  And there are lots of them!

I also saw two cowboys herding cattle on horses.  Real live cowboys on horses.  And two on ATV's. 

After the 18 mile scenic by-pass through the Badlands, I stopped in the town of Wall, which is just outside of the Badlands.  Wall, incidentally, may have more billboards on the highway than the Corn Palace.  Not Wall, actually, but Wall Drug, the drug store in Wall.  I was hungry, so went to the famous Wall Drug for lunch.  I had a delicious open-faced roast beef sandwich, which really hit the spot after 200 cold miles of riding. 

It was too cold and windy to continue riding, so I spent the night in Wall.  Wall, you named your town Wall?

Batting .450

May 10th, 2011

I left Chicago and aimed for Omaha, Nebraska enroute to Badlands National Park and Mt. Rushmore in South Dakota.  Western Illinios left me beat up with high winds and some rain, but I finally felt the warmth of the sun in Iowa.  How nice it was to finally be hot!  The wind, which I had come to hate, had now become my friend cooling me off.  After 344 miles, I stopped in Des Moines, Iowa for the night. 

The next day, tired of traveling on the interstate, I took a route that led me north and west through Iowa heading for South Dakota.  The weather was my friend, providing me with a hot sunny day, as I had hoped everyday of my journey would be.  Iowa is quite a nice place, with rolling hills of corn fields, but after hours of seeing what seem to be the same rolling hills of corn fields, I couldn't wait for a change of scenery.   If you have high blood pressure, I'd recommend moving there.  You'll soon have low blood pressure and a pulse that moves at the pace of a fat kid climbing the rope in gym class.  (no offense to fat kids, or ropes in gym class)

South Dakota was a breath of fresh air, and breathed new life into the day's ride.  Green grass and cattle broke the site of monotonous corn fields.  I stopped in Tea, SD, just outside of Sioux Falls for a break.  Seemed like a great place to live, with well-kept homes, soccer moms, and lots of motorcycles driving around town.

I jumped on 90 west to make it as close to the Badlands as I could.  It felt like living.  I wish I had a shotgun strapped to my bike as I felt like a cowboy riding into the sunset.  I felt elation, true joy, for the first time on the trip.

Along 90, you can't help but notice the many billboards advertising the Corn Palace.  When the exit for it finally came, I couldn't help but stop and see what all the fuss was about.  So I stopped in Mitchell, a town with an old west feel, to see the famed Corn Palace.  Yup, it was a palace made of corn.  And it was closed, so I couldn't go in.  Ok, moving on.

I pressed on trying to reach the 500 mile mark for the day, but after 450 miles, the sun setting, and towns 100 miles apart, I exited the highway where a Best Western Hotel signed called my name.  3 miles north of 90, in Chamberlain, SD, I crested a hill and was in shock and awe at what lay before me.  Beyond rolling green hills, the Missouri river was the backdrop for the town of Chamberlain, also a town with an old west feel.  The Missouri river was an unexpected site.  What a great little town tucked up against the river!  This is the kind of unexpected discovery I had been hoping for.  Chamberlain is a fine place to live....for one night, anyways.

So even though I didn't hit the 500 mark, batting .450 ain't bad.

Day Zero and War with the Wind

May 8th, 2011

My original plan was to depart on Thursday, May 5th.  Because of the weather, I decided to leave a day early.  However, because of the weather being much too cold to ride Wednesday, I delayed leaving one day.  Thus, Day Zero was spent at home relaxing.

Day One.  Thursday, May 5th, I departed as originally planned.  The first half of the drive from Cleveland to Chicago was all I had hoped it would be.  The sun was shining on Clyde and I as we happily hit the open road.   It's hard to put into words the feelings I had as I twisted the accelerator and the rubber finally met the road after months of planning.

The second half of the 337 mile to Chicago was a war with the wind.  Dark clouds loomed, and the wind picked up making the driving more difficult.   I felt as though I was going to be blown off the highway.  Rain threatened, but fortunately, never threw a punch and I stayed dry.  After 7 hours on the road, the Chicago skyline revealed itself and I'd felt a sense of accomplishment.  The epic road trip is no longer something I'll do in the future, but what I am doing now!

I woke up Friday morning to a warm sunny day.  I had planned on going to Milwaukee on Monday, May 8th, to see the Harley Davidson museum.  But the weather was so nice I decided to make the 172 mile round trip journey and put another notch on the belt of states traveled to/through.  Clyde won't admit it, but I know he shed a tear as we pulled up to the Harley Museum.

Chicago has been fun but I'm going to hit the open road tomorrow.  A big thanks to Mr. Brian Head and Christian Svoboda for the good times and warm hospitality.  And a special thanks to Chris, for giving me my "friend held up at gunpoint" story.  You'll have to ask me about that in person to get the full story.

Why did I create this blog?

May 3rd, 2011


Welcome.  I've created this blog so friends, family, and anyone I meet along the way can follow my progress on my three month trip around the USA and parts of Canada. 

It's been a dream of mine to take a trip like this on a motorcyle, and now that dream will be realized.  My noble steed is a 2007 Harley Davdison Street Glide.  I've named it Clyde.  Clyde the Street Glide. 

I've spent the last couple of months preparing for this trip.  First, I looked at a map and thought about where I wanted to go.  I couldn't decide, so I gave my self a goal.  The goal is to touch the four corners of the lower 48 states in three months, on two wheels, riding solo.  

After making a list, checking everything off that list, then thinking of things I forgot and making new lists and checking those things off, I have another list of things to finish today before I set out tomorrow. 

A bit of business: 
On the right, you'll see a section that says Support Cancer Research.  The first link is to the Ryan Waldheger Research Memorial.  Ryan was a truly inspirational friend of mine that after many hard fought battles with Leukemia, passed away at the age of 28.  Please read his story and donate what you can to his Research Memorial.

The second link is to sponsor my brother, Kevin, in a bicycle ride called Pelotonia to raise money for cancer research.  This is the third year my brother has participated in this event, and I'm hoping with your help, we get him the most sponsorship money he's raised to date.  My brother participates in this ride because our father bravely battled and beat cancer in 2007.  Unfortunately, he was diagnosed with another form of cancer late in 2010, and passed away this January.   

I put these links on here becuase I'm not just riding for me, but riding for my dad, and all those who have had to deal with that terrible disease.  He'll be with me in spirit seeing all the sites of this country he loved so much.  

I hope you enjoy this blog!  Tomorrow I am off to Chicago, the first stop on my 12,000 mile journey through 20 some states and parts of Canada!